North Kenya Teil 2

The desire the northeast from Kenya to bereisen, already developed after which I in the year 2005 the northwest and the northern part of north Kenya problem-free bereist. At that time the reports over north Kenya were opened very reißerisch and strotzten with reports over dangerous situations of those for everyone on its short through journey to have heard or them experience want. Somewhat longer there I was not and could special dangers for me recognize.

Mombasa, Nairobi, Isiolo, Wajir, El Wak, Mandera, Garissa and Narok.

This time there was no report for the northeast of north Kenya. A favorable flight offer with air Berlin von Berlin Tegel after Mombasa for 473,-- € for booking a flight to 25.11.2010 with return flight enticed me to 17.12.2010. I wanted to before still catch up some information and thought, who gave to be active locally there me one of the relief organizations those, information for giving could. From two organizations I got no answer and one wrote me that there are at present no aides locally because of the dangers. In the year 2009 me awake people (Somalis from Mandera and Wajir) of a hotel do not have told that it concrete dangers for me as a traveler give and I felt thereby encourage this journey to dare. In front betrayal I that the meeting with the police was the only unpleasant experience.

To 26.11.2010 arrived at Mombasa against 8 o'clock early. On the form for entry I indicated a private round trip as reason of the entry. The official expressed no doubts on my request regarding the security situation in Mandera. I drove with a tax from the airport into the city center. First I inquired at a gas station about prospects for a riding along opportunity toward Mandera. It was insured to me that it is from Mombasa a difficult venture, but it in Nairobi a bus gives to Mandera drives through. Thus I could be driven from the cab driver to a bus station into the Mombasa Road by those buses to Nairobi to drive off. 700 K.Sh., converted 7,-- € a trip with the bus from Mombasa to Nairobi costs with Busways. With machines the same trip costs bought a ticket for the next day, departure time 7 o'clock to 1000 K.Sh. I. The cab driver was pleased, me afterwards to safari the Inn, with Schanzu Serena before the Dolphinhotel to the African safari club belonged, brings to be able. There we arranged ourselves for the next day at 5.30 o'clock, in order to bring me to the bus station. The room in safari the Inn costs 950 K.Sh. per overnight accomodation and is as passage hotel no bad choice.

To 27.11.2010 punctually the tax before the door stood. The roads were still to some extent free at the time, so that we came briskly to the bus station. The bus was not punctually and again and again came buses to Nairobi drove however for which I had not booked. My bus should come from Malindi, only few passengers to Mombasa take up and then drives on after Nairobi. At 12 o'clock was it then so far. At 2.30 o'clock we reached Tsavo and at 20 o'clock Nairobi. The bus held in the Accra Road, corner River Road. Actually favorably convenient for a footpath to the hotel. I had myself made in a hotel, which I already could do from my Kisumu journey in the year 1993 and not in a hotel where I 2005 on my north Kenya route did not find accomodation, to live. My orientation had left me at the bus station in the pass and had trebled themselves the distance thereby. My goal was the Karibunihotel in the Haile Selassi Avenue, between Tom Mboya pc. and Moi Avenue, close of the Eisenbahnstation. I received a room for 1800 K.Sh. the night with breakfast, with which I was also content. The Karibunihotel is importantly more economical and many calmer than the Comforthotel.

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To 28.11.2010 I insert a break into Nairobi and inquire about transport facilities for Mandera. I cannot make a bus after Mandera. It is partially because of that I can speak Suaheli, but it only heavily understands. It gives however this bus which one me in Mombasa recommended. People on the road do not know often even in one of the most well-known roads like these are called, geschweige them know which Buslinen it give. I decide to drive first to Isiolo around there a truck to find to Mandera drive. The Matatus toward Isiolo drives off still from the same place as before 5 years. Nairobi became 5 years substantially more attractive after my feeling in the latter. It is built much. In the better roads of Nairobi prohibition of smoking prevails. Waste-paper baskets are available everywhere and the people pull also.

To 29.11.2010 at 12 o'clock the trip went toward Isiolo, a distance from 275 km, loosely. It gives no Matatu to Isiolo drives through. From my the latter large north Kenya journey I already knew Nanyuki as transfer place. Therefore I had me for a new transfer place, which Karatina decided place. From Nairobi with the Matatu to come out much time cost. Extensive roadworks provided for chaos. The trip by the high country to Karatina was pleasant. The place is appropriate for high plateau directly on one 1750 m underneath the south side of the Mount Kenya. Karatina lies between mountain farms. On the terraces at the mountain-slopes cultivations for bananas, coffee, fruit and vegetable pull themselves along on fruitful grounds. Transferring in a Matatu after Isiolo drove was problem-free. The trip was somewhat more cumbersomely by many luggage that the other Mitreisenden with itself led. In the bright ereichten we still Isiolo. In Isiolo I knew myself already out, so that I could equal me an already well-known hotel visit. It is the Bomenhotel. The hotel did not change in the last 5 years. The hotel leader was still the same. It to me a guard had at that time given, who led me in the dark to a place, from which a truck to Marsabet drive should. The hotel leader could remember still exactly. In its office I was allowed to use its PC. Mean Internet report over north Kenya him had very much pleased. The room cost converted 18 €. Before 5 years the same room cost only 11 €. Were contrary to at that time some guests in the hotel. A Truck for journeys to the difficult area in north Kenya was prepared, was located in the yard. These vehicles, also Turkana buses mentioned, drive mostly from Nairobi into the Turkanasee region. On the way after and by the Turkanasee, the places Maralal, Isiolo and Marsabit are mostly started. These routes are considered generally as very adventurous and arduously. Comfortably I would designate it. Further guests were representatives German blind welfare organization, whose Land Rover likewise in the yard. I could make friends myself with you and her invited me to accompany it on the next day to an inauguration celebration. The association cares for several projects in Kenya. Among them a school in Lodwar and a school belong in Homa Bay at the Viktoriasee. The first time impressed me the work of an association. The temperatures in the evening were substantially higher than at present my first visit in Isiolo. There everywhere small fires burned in the place, at which humans warmed themselves. Here I would like to let pair information about Isiolo flow still another. Isiolo is a border town between the fruitful high country in central Kenya and the desert in the north of Kenya. It is an important traffic junction. The asphalted road, which leads from Nairobi across Nanyuki after Isiolo, ends in Isiolo. Pißten continue to lead the way toward Moyale, over Marsabit and over Wajir after Mandera. Isiolo populated of Somali, Boran, Meru, Samburu and Turkana. The Somali, determines to a large extent in north Kenya the economic life. Their ancestors were recruited in the First World War by the Englishmen for its thing in the First World War, in Aden and Kismayu. After the war they were settled in the northeast by Kenya. In the Nyambeni Hills, which is appropriate for approximately 30 km far away from Isiolo, Miraa one cultivates. It covers the largest part of the Kenyan consumption at Miraa. Miraa, also Khat mentioned, is an everyday life drug in Yemen, Ethiopia, in Somalia, in the north of Kenya and in Djibouti.

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To 30.11.2010 drives the people from the German blind welfare organization to the school administrative board from Isiolo. I got an honour place in front with the driver, for which I thank you again completely cordially on this way. About the arrangements accomplished in a cordial atmosphere, I could not unfortunately understand anything for lack of missing English knowledge. Afterwards the trip continued to go to a school in a more remote part of Isiolo. In this school with the assistance of the German blind welfare organization two new buildings were established and equipped technically in such a way these that the school enterprise for blind children is made possible. The school is on an extensively fenced area, which is to hold rivaling trunks, with its arguments on the pupils to shoot one much for the festive inauguration of the new buildings had prepared. First naturally the inspection of the new buildings took place. In addition by the school advice first a board attached at the building was revealed solemnly and the entrance, symbolically like one it knows, with a shears cut opened. The second building was likewise released by a representative German blind welfare organization in the same kind. For the representatives of the German blind welfare organization, were three members of the association and me as their guest, the prominent figures and the teachers from Isiolo were set up a covered table and at which we place took. Many children and located one in folklore clothes offered your songs and dances. In this way I could photograph humans in Kenya in their original clothes. I otherwise always held back myself with Nomaden to photograph it. To the celebration the trip went still to a garden restaurant where a Buffet was arranged. To this however only few loaded guests had admission.

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To 01.12.2010 I inquire in the morning at two gas stations about a truck about Wajir or toward Mandera continue to myself drive. There was there no vehicle. A somewhat alkoholisierter type wanted to lead me to a place, from which like it insured me. normally always at this time a truck after Mandera drives. I was sceptical, its argumentation that from there nearly daily vegetable is driven to Mandera, convinced me and I went along. Not there it was right and I gave it before joy 500 K.Sh. of the trucks stood, but passengers on this truck waited. A Somali, perhaps also the owner of the LKW´s, which ride along organized, wanted to have 5000 K.Sh. approximately 50 from me € for the trip in the cab. I knew comparison prices already and felt this price too highly. Tough persisting on a lower price is necessary in this case for the reputation. I would have the negotiation broken off if we on 4000 K.Sh. would not have agreed. I had the price naturally only paid as the trip after two hours loose-went. The freight consisted of cabbages and 15 passengers on the front part of the loading area and on the linkage had place-taken. In the Kabiene behind me, two Somalifrauen with a child sat in a Schlafkoje. Beside me, to the driver, a teacher from Wajir sat. The road from Isiolo to Wajir was the worst of all distances of same importance, which I had so far seen. However we did not have a tire change, as they were very frequently necessary from Nairobi to Moyale. On the distance in a small place a small quantity of cabbages was unloaded. At Wajir we arrived against 23 o'clock. One drive on for 05 o'clock one arranged. The passengers divided themselves into small Grüppchen and made themselves it comfortable in the surrounding field of the truck `s

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To 02.12.2010 at 0 o'clock I decided to explore itself the place Wajir little. I could not have slept anyway. First I headed for a bank. From experience white I that there is always a guard there, one could not do thus plauschen and that was in Wajir different. After one hour I pulled far roads relatively broad around now those to run off. Wajir did not have to offer much to me. Wajir is a city with approximately 33,000 inhabitants. It is capital of the district Wajir in the province North Eastern in Kenya. Today above all Somali live in Wajir. Wajir has the Wajir District hospital, restaurant, hotel, a bus station, an orphanage schools, and a mosque. A small shop I had still discovered that open was, before which I made it cosy for me on a chair with two bottles water. Around 5Uhr I appeared myself again with the truck. Many Mitreisenden did not sleep likewise probably and them looked very interested too, when I shaved myself. The driver and a further person still slept under the truck. Several women from Wajir appeared themselves at the truck. The reason was that they were allowed to gather the sloping sheets with unloading the cabbages. Sometimes the shipping workers were also generous and provided for a little more. Against 8 o'clock was then the departure. I got a new neighbour, an older very gesprächigen Somali. The distance became now differently. The ground shone alternating in the most diverse red tones. The distance was not any more than traffic route awards. It had partly an expansion of several one hundred meters and by Spurrillen was marked. Each car looks for itself the smoothest distance and evades in the untouched area, if it is favourable. Spades UP, with Miraa loaded, drive in the racing handle toward Mandera on this runway. A police motorcade or a convoy obligation does not give it. In a small place, which does not admit to me is and which I can find also on no map, break became made, before it continued to go. At the numerous road blocks I get on my constant analyzing to problems only clearly hakuna matata to the answer (no problems). The ground looked at the surface drying, yet the landscape was not meager. Now and then huts at the roadside stood. There were, even if only few animals, to bunch, giraffes and Zebras watch only a small Antilopenart occurred frequently. Nomaden were with larger herds of camels and goats on the way. The plants worked, with a nearly dark red ground, dark-green. The huts and small depots at the roadside announce that we approached El Wak.

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The shade became already slowly longer than we El Wak, which is very close because of the border to Somalia, reached. I made from the window a secret photo of the there police station fast. I experience that it only a short stop give. Passengers will step out and new were added. Our stop was exact before a bus station, which I will still more near become acquainted with. A picture of the road, a short discussion with a controlling policeman, a picture of the truck and continues to go it. It became already dark and the drivers drängelte. I experience, which we and thus I had not counted, still 250 km zufahren have to we in Mandera am. The whole distance runs close along the border to Somalia. The road does not have itself changed so far I it in the dark to recognize can. I was taken into consideration, the vehicle search in Isiolo, already 36 hours without sleep on the way. Nevertheless I was not yet tired. The driver cleaned each quantity of Miraa and became ever more omitted thereby. In a travel guide I read that there is still another distance of El Wak after Mandera, those should however be substantially worse.

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Shortly before midnight we reached a police post at the local edge of Mandera. The police made person control. With preceding controls I was never asked for something. This time I had to mean passport to present. The policeman demanded me on him into the police station to follow. There the commander explained my visa to me would have run off, exactly on my entry day. With speeches with my linguistic abilities was not to be gotten. Fortunately I, against my earlier travel practice, had mean Flugschein also. With him I could convince the official which it mistaken was. Next point was control of my camera. Picture for picture it regarded and found naturally also the photo of the police station. There it became unfriendly in the discussion. It regarded however still further pictures and came to the pictures from Isiolo. In some pictures I was shown under others with the school advice (I call it times in such a way) from the district Isiolo. I explained in the moment my importance (pretended) in this school project to the officials and as I in the future behave, if he makes difficulties for me. It became again friendlier. My journey was nevertheless terminated because of the alleged kidnapping danger. I should go back on the next morning with a regular bus. I have the photo with the police station as return firstrode. The further to photograph was however urgently forbidden to me. I had mean first sleep on the trip in the police cafeteria. Four hours were granted to me and it fell me not at all with difficulty again to rise.

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To 03.12.2010 at 6 o'clock I left in company of two policemen without uniform and weapons the police station. I had seen still hope to something from Mandera to, if I go to the bus station. That was however not like that. I should at the road block zusteigen. I had to wait not for a long time to the bus arrived. The bus was full and the bus leader refused first a further passenger forward carrying. That pleased me much, however nothing helped. Suddenly a place was free, a crew member had for it. I did not have to pay money for the trip first also. I do not think the accompanying crew authorized was to be taken the money. The distance to El Wak resembled the distance which I the day before with the journey before El Wak saw. Again in El Wak and this time I had to show my passport also here. Naja, finally we come from the border to Somalia. Mean camera wanted it to also still see. To the picture of the police station the controlling policeman did not push. In El Wak I got my bus ticket. The trip from El.Wak to Nairobi cost 1,500 K.Sh. The trip from Mandera to El Wak was not proven on the ticket. I saw that however only in Germany. Mean place in the bus had I from the front to the rear to move. The trip up to the next road block continued to go. I had to step out around my passport at a base to present. Afterwards I could enter again. At the following road block I could mean again passport in the bus to present. This time two larger school children were particularly examined. They were in company of their mother behind them sat. The school children had any papers of the school the controlling policemen did not please. The larger school child, with whom I had already changed a pair of words, had to step out and the mother was allowed not also. It told me which one the boy handcuffs put on. I did not have it seen although I beside it sat. A Mitreisender beside me confirmed it however. The boy was again sent back.

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The next inspection point resulted in again a passport check for me and the child should already again with the policeman the bus leave. The boy told which it was already times carried forward and was allowed to therefore remain. The policeman left after whom it all passengers had controlled the bus. Short time after it appeared again and carried this time the mother forward. It returned however after short time again. It was a Somali like nearly all passengers and I would know zugerne which the reason for the chicanery was. Completely I could not notice not all controls however I imagine that it also whole on it arrive. An inspection point at the border of a place I want to still mention. My passport was controlled and afterwards I as usual stepped out. I a photo had made and to it by unknown quantities, which it did not please which I photographs, was responded. I had photographed however only the road and me also a few young Somalis photograph to let. I rejected the man barsch. When entering in the bus a policeman waited for me. I had to a shelter of the police. There my passport was again controlled. Afterwards by the police one stated, I would have photographed it. I had to show again all pictures, at the photographed police station took however no impact. From then on controls within a normal framework held themselves. The bus had to continue twice on the distance because of a breakdown. Once because of a tire and once because of overheating.

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The place Wajir was reached. The bus held only to in and steps out in Wajir. But now I experience only that the bus not over Isiolo drive over Garissa. For me a pleasant message, since I wanted to originally drive from Mombasa over Garissa to Mandera. On drive on after Garissa on open distance one kept also intermediate. Once the reason was that the passengers to their God to pray could. I in demand why I not to my God pray. When I said which I no God have, it has entered faces had given, as I it already once in Marsabit had experienced. The Somalifrauen was partly masked. They had however no shyness, if it requires the situation, to push the veil aside. The Tätowierungen it visibly at hands, arms and legs carried, were quite pretty. A Somalifrau stretched for me its arm out thereby I a photo to make could. As we had reached Garissa were it far over midnight. The new day was started. We had the 04.12.2010 and it were 1,30 o'clock. Garissa is the capital of the province North Eastern in Kenya. It is in the range of the large levels of the Kenyan east because of the river Tana, about 40 kilometers south the equator. The Somali educates the largest subpopulation. From equator crossing however nobody took note in the bus. It was time for sleeping. The crew of the bus took me also into a lodging. Their mats unrolled the crew and I should to them put in the inner court. It did not behagte me however. There were also rooms with window to the inner court. Somehow that did not please me also. I left the inner court and wanted times to see which the other passengers to make in such a way. Those had withdrawn themselves Grüppschenweise into strange huts. A second bus now still stood beside our bus. Its passengers had distributed themselves likewise.

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There were also better houses as in the pictures. I decided to look around as Wajir me still another little. Around a block I found equivalent two opened restaurants not very far. One had even also by covers divided ranges to sleep. The ranges were used only by Somalifrauen. They gekichert the whole night and did not sleep. I watched television only in the restaurant and then to second changed. Both restaurants lay side by side directly. Again I had spent one night without sleep. We left the place over a bridge, which leads across the river Tana. It is of Kenya largest river. Over its length there are different data. Between 700 and 1000 kilometers the data and it are come from the Mount Kenya massif. On the bridge are a police post and the policemen are distributed on the whole bridge. Unfortunate, I would gladly have photographed. It was the last passport check. The distance from Garissa to Nairobi did not have to offer anything special to more. The bus held into me unknown a part of Nairobi, so that I decided a taxi to take. In the dark I arrived in my hotel. I remained to 07.12.2010 in Nairobi. One day used I for a Matatufahrt from Nairobi to Narok. Those stretches Nairobi for Narok is 140 km long. I used the second day for the visit of the railway museum in Nairobi. To 07.12 I drove with the bus again to Mombasa. The bus drove from Nairobi over Mombasa to Malindi. The ticket cost converted 13 to 1,300 K.Sh. €. I made 17.12.2010 subsequently, with Schanzu up to the bath vacation.